I first started writing about ethical issues in clothing over ten years ago, in the late 1990s. At the time, there were few UK-based companies making ethical clothing. Those that did exist, and there were some real pioneers who are still in business now, had a particular style that was unlikely to appeal to younger women or people interested in ‘fashion’.
These days, it’s a completely different story. Thanks to exposes by campaign groups such as War on Want, newspaper features about sweatshops, and TV programmes such as Blood Sweat and Tears, most young women have at least some sort of awareness about how our clothes are produced. In a Mintel survey last year, 59% of consumers cited ethics as important factor in their fashion choices.
At the same time as a rise in our awareness, companies and designers have also sought to address ethical issues and meet the increasing demand for ethical fashion. High street clothing shops compete with each other on their ethical credentials, labels such as People Tree have snagged high profile supporters such as actor Emma Watson, while model Erin O'Connor is a spokesperson for Traid. Sales of ethical clothing have more than quadrupled over the last five years, to reach about £175 million and London Fashion Week has its own ethical fashion showcase, Esthetica.
Yet, there’s something fundamental that I believe that the trend for ethical fashion still fails to address. It’s not that I think it’s a bad idea for clothes to be made from more sustainable material, or for workers to be paid a decent wage for their labour. It’s more to do with the contradictions between fashion – an industry that thrives on transience, consumption and disposability – and sustainability and conservation. How compatible are they? Can you really be an eco-friendly company if you’re still trying to shift a whole new season of clothes every few months? Or is ethical fashion an oxymoron?
The fashion industry survives, and succeeds, down to one main concept: fashion styles come and go. What’s ‘in’ this autumn, will probably be ‘out’ next autumn, requiring you to buy a whole new wardrobe – whether or not you need one. The rise of fast fashion has meant that this turnover happens even more rapidly than it ever did before. At the same time, the fast turnaround from design to production means that sticking to ethical practices in overseas factories becomes almost impossible for the high street, however many codes of practice that a company might possess.
While we (and I include myself in this) might profess to care about ethics and the environment, when it comes to clothes, who can resist a new outfit, especially one that’s ethically produced or whose profits go to good causes? And for ethical fashion companies to survive, they need to buy into the idea that fashions will change from season to season, and year to year. The trouble with all this is that we’re still consuming precious, and more crucially, finite resources, such as water and energy.
While I’m not advocating that we dress in a sack cloth, give up on style altogether or never buy new clothes, I am suggesting that we need to rethink fashion altogether. Perhaps we could move towards a concept of ethical style, which is something that is enduring rather than transient? As part of this, everyone needs to play their part: Consumers need to think carefully about buying into fashion styles that are likely to only last a few weeks, months or just one season; Ethical designers could consider the longevity of their designs – as well as the durability of the garments – so that they’re wearable year after year; Style icons such as Cheryl, Dannii, Madonna, Kate et al could lead by example by wearing the same outfit more than once; And women’s magazines and the rest of the media also needs to rethink the idea that, as women, we need to constantly replenish our wardrobes and reinvent ourselves.
The reality is that climate change and resource shortages are only going to be increasingly important in future years – not less so. It’s time that everyone involved in clothing us – from the designers to the manufacturers, from the magazines to the catwalk models – recognises that.
Putting ethics into practice – the future for ethical fashion
- Wash all your clothes at as low a temperature as possible. This will not only mean that they’ll last longer, but will also reduce the amount of energy that you use.
- Develop your own style, rather than following the fashion crowd.
- Dress for your shape and ignore impractical and unflattering trends.
- Choose timeless stylish garments that you’ll be able to wear (and look good in) whatever the current ‘fashion’.
- If you’ve got an occasion coming up and want to wear something special, instead of buying something that you’ll only wear once, consider renting or borrowing instead.
- Develop some basic sewing and mending skills to customise your clothes or make them last longer.
- Try vintage fashion stalls, second-hand shops and Ebay for good quality second-hand clothes.
- Use tailors and stylists to help you create stylish, timeless, personal garments. Search out ethical clothing companies that eschew virgin resources and instead customise clothes, remake or recycle fabrics.
Ruth Rosselson is a freelance writer and ethical consultant
Read More from Ruth:
Shop For Your Size - A Practical Guide Around The UK Ethical Fashion Size Guides - Ruth checks out the sizes and styles from a number of well known UK ethical fashio brands.
Fashion Recycled - Ruth reviewed Recycled Fashion back in June 2007 but this is a great article with lots of facts & is still relevant reading today.
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